Buy this shirt: Dad play guitar shirt, hoodie, tannk top and long sleeve tee
Watching Gabriela Hearst’s first show for Chloé unfold was like seeing the child of two familiar people grow up before your eyes. Slowly, recognizable features from each set of genes morphed into one symbiosis that turned out quite attractive. (On paper it already seemed like it would, but like any lovechild, you can only really hope.) Hearst called her Chloé collection the “Aphrodite” to her own brand’s “Athena”: sensual and playful femininity versus a heroic and wise androgyny. While both were underpinned by Hearst’s signature earthy puritanism, her take on Chloé’s bourgeois bohemia was far more girly and kicky than the monastic modernism of her own brand.
Next to the Sheltersuit pieces, marble prints on blouses and dresses had been created by the artist Peter Miles using seaweed and eggs. The organic colors of by-product shearling and eco-leather outerwear had come to life through non-chemical processes. And new takes on the house’s classic Edith bag—the first bag Hearst ever bought—had materialized by repurposing old editions. Supported by her likeminded CEO Riccardo Bellini, Hearst said that Chloé had already decreased this collection’s environmental footprint by 400% compared to last winter’s line.
In her early days,Vivienne Westwood made much of the material in Atomage magazine, too. But Kwaidan Editions works a different angle, and you don’t need to be a connoisseur of kink to appreciate the ’90s inflections of their streamlined tailoring and slinky shirt- and slip-dresses.
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