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To detect the “simple” often demanded a knotty negotiation with the complex. Finely tailored trenches and camel coats lurked under bib-like pieces of collar sometimes adorned with swatches of material that looked to have been adapted from olive militaria. On the shadowy runway, menswear jackets cast a coherent slimmed down silhouette which when emerged into patches of light proved to be shaped in panels of different fabrics. Knitwear was deconstructed and sourced from different weights, patterns, and provenances to make attractively complex mongrel wearables.If Abe’s thesis didn’t convincingly stand comparison with its result, the collection itself well merited serious scrutiny. Because that minimal schminimal hoo-ha apart, this was a riotously compelling stew of slow-brewed ingredients blended into a deliciously complex whole. Sportswear, checked ’70s inspired pieces, and irregular blurs of burgundy tulle were cut against each other to create a fusion folk-costume drawn from global references that was distinct yet sometimes felt akin to the wonderful work of Antonio Marras. Coherent? Yes. Simple? Absolutely not. That fortunate audience had much to enjoy.
Things to see in this Loewe menswear lookbook: there are two collections, and the one at the bottom is produce from the company’s Eye/Loewe/Nature sustainable-practice department. Things to know: this time, the communication came as a show-in-a-book, wrapped up in a coffee-table sized monograph on the queer New York artist Joe Brainard, and as a show-on-a-shirt—a huge T-shirt printed with all the sustainable-practice pictures.Why Brainard? “I remember zines he’d done in the ’70s. We remade a book on him which we’ll be selling in bookshops, and the proceeds will go to the charity we work with all the time, Visual Aids, to help artists who have suffered from AIDS,” says Jonathan Anderson. “I felt like Brainard is so important. He was part of a huge movement, with his writing and his pansy collages—his work is now at MOMA and the Pompidou. I like his writing, it has huge optimism, questions sexuality and things like that. But he’s one of those underground figures.”
Anderson talks through the collection in an open-access video on the Loewe website, where it’s easy to see the assembly of charming pansy patterns made into big cardigans, or vast rectangular trousers, or inset as leather marquetry on Loewe Puzzle bags. You also get to understand how the panels of a patchwork shearling are pieced together from reproductions of Brainard’s canvases. And how a tote bag is decorated with the artist’s painting of a whippet on a green background. It’s all adorable and completely wantable. And the extra kick to the feel-good sensation of buying it is that your money is also going to do some good in the world.“I think the whole thing now is about clothing and something else,” says Anderson. “I think the customer wants more than just the clothing now. They want to make sure you have a unique viewpoint and, at the same time, a moral viewpoint.” A joyful vision and a bit of a mad-creative take on fashion are also rare luxuries to enjoy vicariously these days, what Anderson calls “being imaginative with clothing.” His current work on extreme trouser shapes delivers all that. Besides the multi-strapped leather and grommeted punk trousers, the pieces that might read as maxi-skirts actually turn out to be pants too. “I did a lot of wide, wide, super-wide trousers. Kind of performance trousers—this idea of being in your bedroom and dancing on your own.” Which we know is an actual social phenomenon in these days of lockdown.
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